Wow. Wednesday was HOT. And I mean HOT. To the point of being unbearable when climbing.
I got to The Foundry full of psych to try hard and train well. I realise that recently I’ve been losing that a bit and really wanted to enjoy climbing, rather than just getting frustrated with the problems and feeling like I’m constantly hitting a glass wall. I started on some easy (well, apparently) L1s and they felt hard. I felt like I was melting and a giant sack of bleurgh getting up them. I persevered and I’m not sure if it was the heat or that I’m really unfit, or my head isn’t in the right place but I didn’t feel good climbing. I was using my harms and thugging my way up rather than climbing efficiently.
I thought I’d move onto some L2s to see if that would be more fun. It wasn’t really. I tried a couple on the Wave – which was very empty – and my right arm was feeling odd and feet weren’t cooperating. I figured that I wasn’t particularly warmed up so let that be. Also, I don’t think I really wanted to climb. But I was down there and so persevered. The OH and a friend were trying the neon yellows and pinks in the bomb bay area. I had more luck with these last time I tried them and I sucked!
By this time I was truly hot, bothered and in a grump. I’d already stripped to ‘Pooch’ pants and my sports bra (which I actually found really nerve-racking, but I think that’s another post) and couldn’t really get any cooler. I continued to try a neon yellow L2 in that OH and a Friend had cruised.
It starts with an undercut and a pinch type hold, moves up onto a bigger flat hold, but to get any further, you need to put a toe hook under the pinch hold, take a foot off and thug. I worked this move a couple of times, and got it fine. Then I worked the next move, a side throw out to a sidepull. Great.
The next part of the sequence, not so much. It required some foot faggotry, lots of repeated goes, lots of sweat, and more grump. You’re throwing to a fairly flat and un-positive pinch-y sloper. To reach this hold, I needed to swap feet, push off a feature and hope like hell. I then had to match the rubbish hold, do more foot faggotry, and get a heel hook on a hold that I couldn’t see and always felt marginal.
All this to get to another slopery, not great hold. Which I got, after repeated goes. Great. So, then I had to move up and grab a small undercling above my head. I tried moving my feet every which way. I heel hooked. I balanced on features. I fell. Lots. I got grumpy.
I moved on.
By this point I was truly unpsyched so decided to go and do more core work/campus boarding. However, after looking at my fingers, I thought that campusing would not be the best idea.
I did some core work, which felt really hard. And then played on the 30º Board. Managed two sequences and felt bolloxed.
Got changed. Went to the pub.
- 3 x 30″ Plank; 15″ rest
- 3 x 15 crunches; 2 x 10 crunches; 1 x 5 crunches
- 19 Spidermen
- 3 x lower leg raises
- 5 L1
- 2 L2
All in all, not the greatest of training sessions. Where has my psych gone?!