Once again, the Foundry was HOT and my enthusiasm had gone missing somewhere between work and the Wall. Saying that, I realise that thinking positive usually means climbing well, and part of this blog is to try to be a bit nicer to myself as I’m usually really not. So, with that in mind, here is what I did:
I warmed up on some L1s, both in the traversing corridor and in the main wall itself. My right arm and neck have been feeling a bit tweaky which is usually an indication that I’m using my strength more than feet. This is aggravated even more when I’m tired or hungry. I was tired on Wednesday and this showed in my (lack of) footwork.
After moving into the main hall, I did some more L1s, on the Bleaustone Wall, and on the wave and then started on some of the L2s. Have I said that I was really (un)psyched? The Wave is quite a thuggy place to climb, it’s really feature focused and overhanging. Usually it’s also full of super strong climbers as well. But as the weather wasn’t really cooperating, there weren’t that many people around.
I tried a neon yellow L2 (no. 15). I’ve been trying this problem for a while now, and have the bottom section pretty sorted in my head:
It starts on two positive holds and I roll over to roll over to grab another positive hold (a nice rounded one with a finger slot). Foot faggotry ensues so that I can do the next dynamic move out rightwards to able to grab a friendly hold on the edge of the roof. The move itself is quite straightforward, but the hold is quite a distance away.
The next move starts the main cruxy sequence. After getting feet sorted again (most people heel hook the big rounded one. I can’t seem to get it to stick), I push off a featureand pop to another positive hold. It’s kind of on an angle, which means it’s nice to catch. My feet come off doing this move, so I hold the swing, get my left foot up onto a vertical feature, move my right foot onto the hold under the roof and get my right hand onto a nice kidney-shaped hold.
So, I started at the cruxy section that I’ve not sorted out yet:
Once right hand on kidney hold, drop right foot off wall, shift hips to get balance on my left foot and cross left hand under right to grab the next hold. Shift hips a bit more, and grab hold in a different way. I stay on! I shift my weight around and can push off to get the next hold – another fairly positive one with my right hand.
Time to stand up on two features and at full stretch, the final hold is just out of reach. I could probably have popped for it, but as I hadn’t done the bottom section, I didn’t see the point. Jump off in a grump.
So, have a rest. Recover a bit and jump back on.
Do the whole sequence really smooth and get to the final move. Move feet around so I’m standing on two features in a knock-kneed stance (thanks for the tip Diane) and stretch up. Fingers just touch the final hold. Employ some piano-fingers and grab it. Top out.
Have a rest. Feel well proud of myself and get complemented on my sequence.
Have a bit more of a rest and watch the OH doing some other L2s. It’s still hot.
Try to work on the pink L2 (no. 11) from last Wednesday. I can do the first section, which most people think of as the crux, easily but feel really stretched out going for the kidney hold. Try it a couple of times, and then get bored. I think the heat was pretty hard and made the hold harder to hang.
So, figured I’d go and campus in the Furnace instead.
Campusing went well, until I felt my right neck and shoulder start tweaking. This moved into bicep and wrist. After 9 reps, I stopped.
As everyone was waiting for me, I didn’t have any time to do core.
Went to the pub.
- 5 L1 problems for warm up
- 3 L2 problems
- Topped 1 L2 problem
- 7 reps on 2nd smallest rung campus with feet on
- 3 reps on 2nd largest rung campus with feet on
- Training Wednesday 17.07.13 (canadiankate.wordpress.com)