I went to the Climbing Works on Sunday for an easy session. I wanted to work on endurance because I feel that I’ve been working at such a high level at the Foundry that my endurance and enjoyment of climbing had been eroded a bit. This is mainly because the Foundry set is so hard now. Also the heat has something to do with it as well.
We started on the purple spotties and the first couple were very easy. Basically wandering up slabs and using footwork to rock over. I made them harder by not reading the problems at all, so having to use strength instead of grace.
The spotties included a range of different styled problems: from slabs to vertical walls; over hanging walls to roofs. I usually find that I’m best on vertical walls with small holds, or overhangs with larger holds. This seemed the case today – other than the fact that the ones set on vertical walls seemed to be rather tall.
I didn’t do 4 of the problems and I’ll outline my beta and why I didn’t get them (which I should have as they’re 5+ dammit!):
Problem #4: set on a vertical wall and arête.
The problem sequence asked me to start one hand on the vertical wall and the other on the arête. I had two footholds, but they were slightly off-balance. I then had to stand up to go for 2 vertical holds, one above the other. At full stretch with my foot on the starting hold, I could reach them.
So, I tried to move my feet in and up. Stood up, but had painted myself into the arête and couldn’t get enough height to go for the next vertical hold. Repeated a variety of different foot placements and none of them felt great. Became grumpy, I moved on.
Problem #12(ish?): set on vertical wall
The sequence was quite straightforward. What made it more interesting was the fact that the final 3 holds were minute and required a delicate step across to get to the final hold. Because the holds were so small, this needed to be in control. I kept slipping off the two mini holds and fingers started to feel creaky. I moved on.
Problem #13(ish): set on arête of vertical wall
This problem was very easy if of taller stature. For me, I couldn’t use the 2nd hold. This meant that to get established, I had to start on a different foot, and then do a balancy stand up and catch a small hold move.
So, the sequence went: left hand on arête, right hand on crimpy starting hold with my left foot on starting foot hold. Stand up and put right foot on second foot hold, tuck left foot around corner. Stand up and grab crimpy button. Miss, and swing off the arête. And repeat.
Hopefully, this will go next time. I think arêtes are definitely a weakness of mine.
Problem #(?): set on another small arête/vertical wall
This was definitely a head game. The moves weren’t difficult and once established on the arête, all I needed to do was rock over to a higher foothold and then stand up. I really didn’t like it!
Problem #(?): Big move on the skips
Powerful move and definitely the fact that I didn’t have the reach. Essentially, all I needed to do is to rock over and swing up towards a small hold. No matter how much I swung, I really couldn’t get the hold. I was always just a fingers width away.
So, there we go. Most were nice and straight forward. I had a really good work out and felt like I could actually climb.
- Completed the purple/pink spots (graded 5+) bar 4.
- Did 50 crunches