I have a poorly finger

I’m not sure if anyone has been able to tell, but I’ve been getting bored training recently. This often happens in the summer because of the heat and the fewer re-sets at the bouldering wall.At the moment, the wall has a super hard set and that means that either I have to swallow my pride and climb L1s (which are still quite hard, but mainly on big jugs) or keep battling on with the L2s. I’ve not even looked at the L3s! The heat is really difficult to climb in and saps any excitement or enthusiasm out of me as soon as I step into the Foundry. I feel as if I’m climbing into a tub of slightly chalky molasses and generally start getting sulky. I don’t think that it helps that I’ve been working hard recently.

We try to climb outside a lot during the summer, but the weather has not been helpful this year. I love the heat, but it’s really crap to climb in. I think I’m also fatigued. Work is very hard. I’ve re-written (pretty much from scratch) 3 chapters in the last 2 months and will have another one done by the end of August. This is mentally draining, so by the time Wednesday evening rolls along, I’m lacking in mental fortitude to throw myself at hard boulder problems. All I really want to do is fairly low difficulty, high volume sessions on a Wednesday, but the Foundry isn’t really geared towards that at the moment.

I’ve also been suffering with a tight shoulder/neck and the lats on my right side. This has been manageable with lots of warming up and mobilisation exercises. I find rolling on a foam roller is really helpful and helps manage the tightness. However, I’ve now started feeling tweaks in my left middle finger, both on slopers and crimps, which sounds a lot like an A2 pulley injury. It’s not too bad yet, and manageable with taping it up, but I’m definitely going to stop campusing for a while and work on core.

So, on Wednesday, I warmed up fairly slowly and then tried some problems that I’ve not yet managed to top. I didn’t feel like trying some that I had topped because I figured that if I couldn’t do any of them, then my enjoyment would really be challenged. That said, I did manage to dial a sequence for a problem that I’ve been trying for a while. I now need to focus on the top section which is a strange, off-balance flick off a high foot and not great right hand hold to a not great (but good enough) left hold. I tried this flick many times on Wednesday, and I kept getting to about 2 inches from the top of the hold before falling off. It needs both shoulder and a bit of leg push to get the height and with my foot so high up, I’m finding it difficult to engage my butt to make the push. Once I’ve done it once or twice, I think I’ll understand the move better and be able to replicate it more. Whether that will help me get the problem is another matter!

I’m trying to be more mindful when climbing and enjoying the individual moves a bit more rather than deciding that I’ve only achieved something when I reach the top of the climb. So, in some ways I still achieved something on Wednesday. Diane said that I was climbing hard and trying hard moves, which makes me feel a bit better about the day. On the whole, I need to rethink my training plan for Wednesdays and accept the fact that right now I’m knackered and work around that. I’m not even bothering to include stats for Wednesday because I didn’t really achieve anything. Not even some core!

Here are some links to websites about A2 pulley injuries:

Here are some good websites for general climbing rehab:

A possible A2 pulley injury. I’ve taped it up and it felt better when supported. Photo: Canadiankate

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