Friday was such an amazing day for a number of reasons:
- I found out that the editors of a journal were interested in my abstract that I submitted, and recommended that I draft an article for publication (obviously they can still reject the article, but I’m still taking it as a positive).
- I discovered a really yummy climbing snack which fits most of the paleo/anti refined crap requirements that I try to restrict myself to (I’ll pop up the rather vague recipe later)
- It was sunny
- The Works had reset the competition wall.
- The Works was playing an awesome mix of music, from Tom Jones, Prince, Led Zepplin to Santana and various others.
- I climbed really well.
Diane and I warmed up really slowly. The competition wall was rammed because it had been reset and there was no point starting on it as I’d blow my arms out of the water. So, we started on greens and green/pink spotties, making sure to do everyone one of each on each section of wall. I was feeling really light and giddy. It was a good feeling! My finger wasn’t even feeling that bad either.
We then started to integrate some purple spotties into the mix, gradually increasing the difficulty but focusing on volume and playing rather than difficulty. The Works was also playing some very happy music which meant that I was pretty much dancing up the walls, trying to move in time to the beat. I’m not sure if anyone noticed, but it was really fun.
Diane then stopped to help some climbers who were trying #1 of the Blacks set, opposite the entrance to the wall. It starts on a tufa-like hold, and you have to use the arête and the tufa to step up and sort your feet out before moving your left hand to the next hold, another tufa and essentially letting your body swing over to the hold and catching the swing with your right hand. It’s really shoulder-y and I love that kind of thing. They guys didn’t get up the problem, but they managed to break it down and work different parts of it. Hopefully they’ll be able to link it the next session. I tried the problem too, and found that it aggravated my right hand’s weird RS; saying that, I managed to link the problem in two sections. Hopefully, I’ll also be able to link the whole thing next time.
By this point, our other friend had turned up and was working on the whites. He suggested I try one which he was working on – it was definitely too hard for me, but I could do some of the moves individually. I then eyed up a wasp that I hadn’t tried and gave it a go. I flashed it, even though I very nearly came off the top move! After that, I really wanted to work harder problems – I was psyched – so tried a couple of yellows and another wasp. I couldn’t do any of them but I think I was getting tired by this point.
Luckily the competition wall had cleared by now, so we decamped to try some of the new problems. I flashed two slab problems – which required me to actually trust grip paint. I then tried another yellow one, and got pretty high until I had to go with my right hand to a large, flat volume. I got the height, but couldn’t latch the hold. I think it’s a very tension-y move, and I’m not good at engaging tension very quickly. By this point, I was truly bolloxed and went to do some core work before cooling down. After that, we went to the pub.
- Topped a lot of greens
- Topped a lot of green spotties
- Topped a couple of purple spotties
- Worked 1 black; 1 yellow on the comp wall
- Flashed 1 wasp; 2 slab problems on the comp wall
- 3 x 30” side plank
- 3 x 30” front plank