A session of being stung on the wasps

I think I was still pretty tired from my bug, or just fat, but I was not feeling strong on Sunday. My lower back was really sore, so I took a while to warm up and did some stretches before trying anything difficult.

We started by the Clinic wall and worked on some of the wasps there. My OH had struggled to do a very straight forward move, which mainly involved balance, but managed to get it after a couple of goes. I found this problem very tall and could get in balance, and then unable to move. This meant I could touch the final hold with the tip of my left hand and there was no way of matching it. I probably could get more height from my left foot, but that would compromise my balance. Either way, I decided to move on and try some of the other ones.

The next problem that I tried was on the skips and it involved getting established on a fairly good right and left hand holds and then stepping across with the right foot, dropping the left and moving to two very small crimps that became very greasy quickly. I could do the start moves fine, but the final move was a large push out rightwards to a flat hold on top of a volume. After trying it a couple of different ways, I figured out the sequence which enabled me to get the height and sideways movement. I touched the top hold twice, but couldn’t latch it. I was getting quite tired by this point, so decided to move on.

I started working problem #1 of the circuit. It had a nice rollover move to start with before a giant move which was quite difficult. I think it was set so that you could grasp the left hand hold as an undercut, stand on the outside edge of your right foot and flag with your left to stand up in control for a kidney shaped hold with your right. I tried this once or twice, but couldn’t get the height with the lower feet they set. I found that I could get the height by popping dynamically for the hold and then matching it to go out leftwards to the final one. Unfortunately, I didn’t leave myself enough room to match and wasted lots of energy playing swapsies. I think it will go next time though.

We tried a couple more of the wasps – one I managed to flash with an excellent hip rest half way up – and all of them were quite difficult. I’m pleased that I got up lots of them to the final or penultimate hold, as it suggests that I’ve improved recently.

We wound down on the comp wall trying some of the recent reset on it and I managed to link another move on one of the problems that I’ve been trying.

Some stats:


  • Warmed up on greens and reds
  • Worked 9 wasps
  • Topped 2 wasps
  • Topped 1 problem on comp wall


  • 2 x A6W cycle. I had to repeat the last day I did as I lost 1 day through illness