More wasps and a big ol’ grump

It was just one of those things. I was tired, the wasps are HARD and I wasn’t that psyched. Thinking back, I didn’t warm up that much and I think this affected how well I could climb. I was finding the problems tall, the holds slopey and the moves weren’t clicking. The fact that the OH was swanning up them didn’t help. In the end, I gave up and changed focus. I started linking a 7a on the training board and managed to make almost one full completion! This is not a good thing – I think I need to improve my endurance.

So, Friday’s session was not a winning one. Nothing clicked, and the more I couldn’t do things (well, found them hard) the less I could rationalise with myself that it was okay. I started getting tight chested, and really angry at myself. I shouldn’t find the wasps hard! They’re supposedly set a level that I should supposedly do – or at least everyone says that I should be able to do. No matter that I find the style of climbing very foreign, and I don’t really get on with the holds – I should still be able to do the problems in a couple of tries! These were all the things that were going on in my head. That, and trying to take a step back and try different moves. In the end, I just wanted to finish. I considered lowering my sights and doing an easier circuit, but I wasn’t sure that I was even in the mood for that.

After a while of not enjoying myself, I decided to do some strength and core exercises. I did core first, and then considered doing some campus board training, or finger boarding. However, my A2 pulley had started to make its presence known on jugs and crimps during the session. This meant that I backed off and decided to wait a while longer before commencing training again.

In conclusion, I don’t think either me or the wasps won that night.

Some Stats (such as they are)

  • Climbed about 4 warm-up problems
  • Attempted 7 wasps. I mainly dropped the top moves or the penultimate move:
  1. One problem dropped as I have a very tight lower back and it inhibits certain planes of movement
  2. One problem dropped as I can’t seem to work out feet to ‘pop’ for hold
  3. One problem dropped as it’s a very long pop to ‘okay’ hold, difficult to match and then another sideways pop to top hold
  4. One problem uncompleted as I was tired. And grumply. Mainly that.
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