For a variety of reasons, I’m on a leave of absence from my PhD. This means that I have time to train for Font, and I have really thrown myself into it. After a pretty hard session on Wednesday, I went back with Diane and had another session on Thursday. What was supposed to be a short, but intense session turned into a longer, but still intense.
I’m getting into the swing of training a bit more, and see linking moves, or getting one hold higher as progression rather than the grade or difficulty of the climb. I wanted to work on a overhanging problem on the right hand side of the Wave. It’s an L2, but has interesting sloper/pinch holds and a hard top out. On Wednesday, I’d managed to link together the bottom part of it, and Diane had commended my body positioning and climbing style. I still haven’t topped the problem yet, but on Thursday, I managed to link all the moves and fall off the top a couple of times.
We also worked on my climbing style and tried to get me to be a bit more efficient. I’m a thug at heart, and when things get hard, I turn to strength over style. While I’ll never really totally overcome this tendency, I think working on it will improve my endurance and efficiency overall. There is a really good traversing problem in the corridor, that makes you really consider the most efficient way of moving and using the holds. The moves are difficult and the holds are a mix of slopers, pinches and some good ‘rest’ holds as well. After working this problem a good couple of times and linking the moves together, I was done for.
My fingers had definitely lost their climbing skin and I was getting close to going through the tips on a couple of them. I warmed down, had some lunch and then headed off.
- Warmed up on some L1s
- Worked 2 L2 problems, linking moves and consistently falling off the top move