Ticking over

Not much to say about bouldering on Wednesday. I was fairly strong and climbing consistently well. However, my current habit seems to be dropping the final or penultimate move on problems. I can cruise up the rest of the boulder problem, and then just drop the top/not commit/hang around/fall off. It’s really frustrating!

This is what happened on the yellow problem in the photo. The moves were pretty long, but I could use strength and thuggery to do the bottom moves and then pop to a really good hold; have a bit of rest and then ‘hoik’ for the yellow hold in the centre-top of the photo and then get stuck. The penultimate, and final move on this problem seem really big and I couldn’t figure out a body position that would help me make the height. The hold also wasn’t quite big enough to commit to popping for it.

After yo-yoing up and down on the fairly thuggy moves at the bottom a couple of times, I stopped. My right shoulder was getting sore, and I wasn’t getting anywhere on the problem. I then tried the yellow next to it, and this involved campusing. I could do the first couple of moves (again) and then there was a huge committing move at the top. I tried a couple of times and stopped.

I then got back on a problem I had tried last Thursday and cruised the bottom bits to the move that I kept dropping last time. I didn’t get it this time, but I felt much stronger on the bottom moves. Maybe if I tried it fresh, I’d have had more of a chance.

After that, I had a massage and chilled out prior to heading to Wetherspoons.

Fellow boulderer having fun on a L2 problem. Photo: CanadianKate

Some Stats:

  • Warmed up on 3-4 L1s
  • Worked L2 on right hand side of wall for about 30 mins
  • Worked L2 on low overhang for about 15 minutes
  • Worked L2 on the Wave for about 10 minutes (got tired and grumpy)
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