After a pretty mediocre session at the Foundry on Wednesday, I wanted to get some more mileage under my belt on Thursday. I remember Tom Greenall (my climbing coach) suggesting that when I felt like I was not succeeding and achieving my aims in my climbing sessions I should change focus. I thought I’d do this and decided to drop grades and work on volume. Also, as I’m heading to Fontainebleau soon, I need to get my endurance up too!
I’d pretty much done all the easy circuits at the Climbing Works and the Foundry to death, so Diane and I decided to go back to the Other Wall. After finally getting there about 4:00pm we paid to get in (£8.00 for a student!!) and then started to warm up in the room that I’d already seen. More of the bouldering area was open and had a range of different coloured circuits.
We started on the pinks (V1-V3) in the smaller room and then moved into the bigger room. By this time I felt like I had warmed up. My muscles were sore and I generally hurt quite a lot, but it wasn’t an injury pain. It was definitely overuse and muscle-building pain (hopefully!). I was not climbing particularly well, I didn’t read some of the problems right and expended more energy being thuggy than being graceful or light.
After completing all the pinks, we moved onto the blacks. These were supposedly V3-V4, but I’m not sure. Some of them were odd. I topped all bar 1, but some of them took multiple goes. I didn’t have a long rest between goes, as I was working on endurance, and this probably meant that some took more goes then others.
Diane was really helpful on identifying when I was being more thuggy than I ought. Also, I could make life a lot easier with simple body positioning and balance transfers. It seemed that my climbing is improving(ish), and the main key to unlocking this is body movement.
After climbing for about 1 1/2 hours, I was pretty tired and my hands were really sore! The holds were rough on my palms and my injured A2 pulley finger. Diane had a bit more in her, and we bumped into two other Climbing Works regulars. I did a couple of warm down problems and a very short core session, while she completed all the reds in the small room.
- Completed all V1-V2 problems (pinks)
- Completed all V2-V3/4 problems (blacks)
- Some core work