I’m not sure why I was so grumpy. Actually, that’s a lie. I know exactly why I was grumpy. I felt like I should be able to climb the yellows with more ease than I was.
I warmed up pretty slowly as it was definitely cooler in the Works. My hands and fingers took a while to start working. I wasn’t feeling creaky, but just a bit flat. I started working on the yellows after doing a couple of the black problems in the 2nd room at the Works. I’m not sure if they’re a harder set in there, but I felt very inept. I don’t think it helped that the OH seemed to be cruising the yellows and I was really feeling my lack of height.
There were two that really stand out. One starts at about chest height for me, on the corner of a small roof and it doesn’t have a foot hold. I had to use the flat of my foot in the corner of the roof and twist my hips in. I didn’t have enough pull to attempt a campus move, and the hold was too far to simply lock it off and roll over. In the end I stopped trying the starting move because it was getting too frustrating to be so low on it and with very few options for gaining height.
I moved on to the problem next to it and worked that for a while. I kept dropping a fairly long sideways move. I think it was more through tiredness then poor body positioning. Although tiredness definitely contributes to scrappy climbing.
To make myself feel better, I tried a pair of the Scarpa Instinct VS as I wanted to see how good the heel was. The Scarpas are pretty awesome. I got two moves higher on the yellow then I had previously because the toe is so sensitive and the heal is really well designed. Straight out the box I felt really secure in them, had the sensitivity to feel really small holds and do quite a strenuous heal rock over in them. Now, I can’t decide between them and the 5.10 Dragons.
Compared to my Boreal Kintaros, the heel in the Scarpa is a dream and I know that the Dragons have an awesome heal. Unfortunately the price for each is pretty steep and I can’t really justify the expense at the moment. However, after I had put on my old shoes, I just didn’t get the sensitivity and really couldn’t trust my heel at all. It kept slipping out the shoe, no matter how tightly I did them up. Annoyed, I moved on.
After flitting between two other problems in the 2nd room, I decided a change of scene was probably in order and I went and looked at a yellow on the clinic wall.
I had tried it before and couldn’t top it. The final move seemed to be quite heightist, but after a couple of tips from Diane I managed to get the right balance and did the final move. Yay! Or rather, Grump. I should have done it before.
I also topped another problem ( a wasp) that I had been working for a while and I felt pretty pleased with myself. It also required a heel hook, but not as aggressive as the earlier yellow problem. After trying another yellow and getting to the penultimate move, I know that I was pretty tired and moved onto cooling down and some core work.
- Warmed up 5+ problems
- Worked a black with a tall top move
- Worked 5 yellows
- Topped 2 problems that I previously failed to top
- Core work – plank