New problems, yay!

I went for a short run before heading down the Foundry for the usual Wednesday night climbing session. I was super excited because there were some new problems from the first round of the winter Foundry Indoor Bouldering League. The run was super hard, and I was worried that I wasn’t going to be able to pull very hard. Also, whenever I return from Font it takes a couple of sessions to remember how to climb on plastic. My finger tips seem very slippery and don’t give good feedback on whether or not I’m actually holding anything. So, I was kinda nervous – was I going to actually get up anything? Was my remaining psych from Font going to be crushed by the Wave? All these questions.

I was certainly tired. My muscles took a while to warm up, and I was creaky. But I still was climbing well. I enjoyed moving and using holds and features that I knew like the back of my hand. In some ways, coming back to the Foundry after a spell away is like a meeting an old friend. I knew where the features were, recognised the holds and could simply enjoy the moves between each. I felt like I was climbing really well and did manage to flash some of the comp problems.

I focused on three problems for this session after warming up. Two were on the Wave, and one was in the ‘bomb bay’ area of the bouldering wall. The two on the Wave didn’t go, but the moves are awesome. I managed to do the bottom of the problem quite easily and then I managed to do the top in one go, but couldn’t connect the two. After falling at the same place three times in a row, and knowing that it was more a lack of energy than lack of technique, I stopped working the problem.  The second problem was a fluoro pink on the left side of the Wave. This was more technical than the yellow. It took me a couple of goes to get the right foot placement and balance points to make the moves. After falling off repeatedly on the same move, I took a break and then tried again. The move clicked and I worked the following moves, all the way to the final hold before the top of the wall. My fingers started to unfurl from a crimpy pocket and I slapped the top while falling off. Annoying, but I know that I’ll get it next time.

I was pretty tired by this point, so played around on some of the problems that I was finding harder, and worked individual moves. This whiled away the time until Wetherspoons.

Some stats:

  • Distance: 4.6km
  • Time: 26:35
  • Pace: 5:47 km/h
  • Elevation: 50m
  • Warmed up on 5 L1s
  • Flashed 1 L2 (new comp problem)
  • Worked 4 L2s
  • Nearly topped 2 L2s