After my rubbish session at the Foundry on Wednesday, I was determined to do better on Friday. It was the first Climbing Works Winter Bouldering League on Friday, but we still decided to go. Diane Merrick was competing, and so we went to support her, and also it is now the routine.
I warmed up on some reds, greens and then moved onto looking at the whites and blacks. I found out that the Wasps were going to be taken down soon, and I hadn’t been on them since back in early September.
I decided to try to do some of the ones that I had a big ol’grump on when I was trying them last. The OH and our friends were doing a mix of the yellows, whites and murples in the 2nd room of the Works, so I focused on the wasps in there.
I topped a wasp that went up the roof. It had big holds, but required big throws between them. It was pretty easy. However, I was really pleased with my progression between September and now on holding more ‘volume-y’ or ball-like holds. There was a problem in the 2nd room that I could not even get off the ground on back in September. It required a heel on the start move, and hand holding a ball hold, with small fissures that gave purchase. The first time I tried it on Friday, I managed to keep the heel in, match the ball with both of my hands and pull for the next hold – touching it with my fingers before I came off. The heel never worked for me again. I don’t know what I did that first go!
I then tried another wasp that I couldn’t top in September. I cruised it – mainly relying on shoulder strength rather than technique. I was pretty damn pleased when I topped it.
The final two wasps that I tried in anger were also positive. No, I didn’t top them, but the move, or moves that I found really hard in September, I found marginally easier.
There was one problem where the penultimate hold was a big pinch and an off balancy move to catch a flat lipped final hold. After working it a couple of times, I just got the fingers of my right hand on the final hold and came off. I got to that place a couple of times in a row – progress.
Then, there was a problem which required balance and flexibility in my lower back. Again, I didn’t top in – in fact I didn’t come near topping it – but I could do the move that I found very, very hard, easier and repeat it consistently. Woop.
By that point, the team had got hungry, wanted curry and Diane had done all the problems in the comp that she wanted to do. We packed up and went for curry.
- Warmed up on greens, reds & purple & pink spots
- Worked the moves on 2 whites
- Topped 2 wasp
- Progressed on 4 wasps