Getting shut down by the new set at the Foundry

After the Foundry Winter Bouldering League on Monday, the whole of the bouldering wall has been reset. I have heard from some of the setters and those involved that the problems have a wide range of difficulty. I warmed up on the L1s, and they were really nice. They flowed well and had some nice long moves in them.

I took a while to warm up, because winter has now settled in Sheffield and it is cold in the Foundry main hall! It didn’t take long for my body to warm up, but fingers take longer to warm up properly and as I’m still a bit worried about my left-hand middle finger, I didn’t want to risk it.

I tried about 3 of the L2s. That was all I could do before flying into a massive rage (strop?!) about my ability on Wednesday (likely), or the setting (less likely). I found a lot of the moves very long – especially the final move. I had found this the case on the only L2 that I tried in the comp on Monday, but that is more the way that the wall is designed than the setter’s fault as there isn’t any place to put footholds without making the problem super easy for those who are taller.

I got really, really frustrated on a problem on the 15 degree bleaustone wall. It had a move that would be piss if tall, but really freaking difficult when shorter. The only way that I found to do it was but resting on my heel, rolling over to press against the volume and then popping to catch a small hold with my left hand. I then had to match said tiny hold – a feat I managed once – and then do a very long move out to the left to hold a pinch, walk up the volume then it was home and dry. I know that short people can do this problem because someone smaller than me did it – but that pissed me off even more. And even typing about the problem is filling me with rage!

I tried 2 more problems, and managed to do most of the moves. I kept dropping the top of two of the fleuros because the final holds weren’t great and miles away from the top. I was shaking in frustration by the time that my friend suggested we have a cake stop.

After not achieving anything worth note on the L2s, I decided to do some routes. I am still enjoying leading, but was feeling pretty bolloxed after trying hard on the bouldering wall. Me and a friend stayed in the main room and for the first time in about 3 years, I led something up the main wall. Granted the highest grade was a 6a+, but still, yay!

We did 2 routes each in the main hall and then went into the Furnace. I was so tired, and pumped that my left hand wouldn’t close properly. Instead of dropping off and lowering down, I switched to the grade lower (5+) and topped the route. The OH had come in to shout that everyone was packing up to go to Wetherspoons so that curtailed me doing any more routes.

I hope to do at least 10 routes on Friday, and I’m not sure about getting back on the Wave. It seems that I never get passed the L2s. I’ve climbed at the Foundry for 7 years now, and I really can’t see any improvement when it comes to benchmarking my climbing there. Most re-sets I can do maybe 3-4 in the first session, and then work a couple more of them, but I never seem to get past them. Whereas, at the Climbing Works, I have gone from not being able to do any of the Yellows/Wasps in a set to doing most of them. I dunno, it’s really, really disheartening and frustrating.

Some stats:

  • Warmed up on 5 L1s
  • Worked 3 L2s – shut down on 2nd move on 2 of them; dropped the final move on 2 of them
  • Led 2 5+s
  • Led 2 6as
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