A mixed bag at the Climbing Works

After a really good session at the Foundry on Wednesday, I was unsure how things were going to go at the Climbing Works on Friday. I was pretty tired, and in quite a lot of pain – which is gutting. My knees seem to be taking a lot of knocks and my lower back is phenomenally tight. It hurts to jump down from the wall, and hurts to do heel-hooks/rock-overs and other movements. I have been a bit lax on the physio exercises and have started back with them again. Unfortunately, they don’t really seem to be addressing the pain. Following the advice of a PT friend of mine, I’ve started to stretch out my hip flexors and psoas as they are very tight on me and can be compounding the lower back pain. This makes a lot of sense, as I’ve started running more regularly, and (hopefully) with better technique and activation of the appropriate muscles. I do stretch out post run, but if I’m now using muscles that I have only just started activating, they are more likely to become fatigued and get tight. Anyway, I’ll let you know if the stretching helps.

So, we got to the Works and it was very quiet (it was mad Friday after all). I warmed up slowly and then took stock on how I was feeling – mainly creaky – but also quite strong. Rather than focusing on one colour, I decided to be a bit like a kid in a candy shop and do a range of circuits. This meant ticking off some wasps, yellows, murples and even some blacks that I hadn’t done before. Considering how creaky I felt, I achieved quite a lot!

I topped a Wasp on the slab when I hadn’t been able to get of the ground previously. It required putting a foot up by my hand and leaning off an arete, a bit of a delicate step across and a small pop to the very good top hold. I then did an actual slab climb, which required smearing on grip paint and using the arete and balance and everything! I was super pleased when I topped it. The next slab problem was a bit more cheeky and required timing, balance and technique – usually the things that I’m not great at. It took me a couple of goes to get, but I did and I was very happy. By this point, I was in a lot of pain and decided to start to warm down and stretch out. I think I’m going to start to integrate my physio and stretching back into my training. I’ve taken about 3 months off and now its time to start to include back in again.

In general, Friday was a good session. I am slowly improving, and sport climbing is helping me by increasing my endurance to try harder things. Now, I just have to get my body to start liking me again!

Some stats:

  • Long warm up
  • Topped 3 new wasps
  • Topped some black problems
  • Did physio exercises to activate glutes and hip flexors
  • Stretched out hip flexors

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