Janathon Day 3: Bouldering at the Climbing Works

I was still feeling pretty tired. My insomnia is coming back again and as a result, I’m going through the days in a bit of a zombie state, so I was not expecting much at the Works. I went more to show willing rather than for any other reason – well that and also I had to drive the OH there.

I warmed up quite slowly – my back is stiff at the moment and I wasn’t sure how I was going to climb. After doing a number of different easy problems on the vertical wall opposite the campus wall, I started to try some problems on the comp wall. I’ve only had one proper session on the comp wall, and so I wanted to see what I could achieve before they take the problems down. As it turns out – not very much! I was not feeling particularly strong, in balance or psyched. I tried a yellow balancy problem on the corner between the slab and the beginning of the overhang. It requires good balance and quite subtle movements to get from the first wavy hand hold to the next one. I found the move quite far, and I could only catch it with my right hand one go in four. I managed to get to the next hold twice and throwing to the next hold was off balance and a bit tenuous. I couldn’t get my feet in the right position and when I felt in balance (just the once!) I tried to go for the next hold and my foot pinged and I was off. I never got back to that point after that. Annoying!!

The next problem I tried on the comp wall was a blue. This one was more my style. It was quite small, on fairly positive holds and I got much farther up it. However, the crux was still a bit beyond me. My foot popped once, and I collapsed in an ungainly heap on the mat. The next attempt I was much more settled on my feet and got in better balance. However, I still had to reach out with my right hand and then turn it into a press and go up with my left to another fairly good crimp. My shoulder didn’t feel that great in that move and after trying a couple of times I stopped.

After that I was feeling quite tired and a bit low. I started to work on some wasps, yellows and murples. I warmed down and got ready for curry. It really wasn’t a great session but at the same time, I feel like I’m able to progress further on the wasps and that means that I must be getting better. I am much better on slabs and actually able to use my legs and bum to get up climbs. I guess I might  be plateauing and I will improve again soon. I just hope that my back gets better soon!

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