Janathon Day 5: A bouldering day

Sundays are always bouldering days. This one was pretty much normal other than we went to a different climbing wall as the Works and the Foundry have not reset for a long time. It’s good training to go to different walls – they all have different features, setting styles and it helps develop route-reading skills and strengthen weaknesses etc.  It is also a good way to get a bit depressed when problems that look to be well within one’s grade end up totally nails and one gets spanked on pretty much everything one tries.

Anyway, we went to a different wall. We climbed lots of different problems which were a very different style from the norm. I realised that I definitely need to work on my dynamism and popping. I also need to work on my pinchy/sloper strength. There was a problem which required both that the OH wandered up (I’d like to think it’s because he’s taller) and I had real difficulties with. I managed to progress in the moves, but kept getting shut down trying to make a pop to a small pinch hold. It didn’t help that there was a volume right at my chest height which put me off somewhat.

I moved on after I fatigued on that problem and wasn’t making any progress. I tried another of the same grade and didn’t really get anywhere on it. I was trying to move across and then up using a half moon hold on the side of a volume. I couldn’t get close in and above the hold which would make it positive so I kept barn-dooring off.

Eventually I got a bit disheartened by falling off moves I felt like I should be able to do. I started climbing the problems at the grade lower. I cruised all of them bar two. Those two went in 2 goes. By this time I was quite tired and aware that I needed to get home and do some more work, so me and the OH left.

As much as I enjoy climbing most of the time, I mainly felt frustration and grump at this wall. The problems didn’t engage me as much as usual and this may be because they were making me work on my weaknesses and weren’t really my style of climbing. I would have liked a greater range of holds on the V4-V5s, as they mainly involved big pinches, or small crimps. Diane said that they were the same colour and style that they used for the World Cup level circuit previously and I think it showed. However, it is nice to be able to use the holds used in higher level circuits at a lower level – it would have been even better if I could have topped some of the problems though!

I think I need to go back to this wall – the fact that I was getting shut down on pretty much everything that should be my level suggests that it would be a good place to go and work on my weaknesses. Unfortunately I’m not sure when I could fit it into my training schedule – although I’m sure I’ll think of something.

Some stats:

  • Warmed up on V0-V2s in Room 1
  • Worked all V4-V5s in Room 2. Didn’t top one
  • Worked all V3s in Room 2. Topped all (fairly) easily
  • Tried a dyno – almost latched it