Training plans and scheduling – it’s harder for two sports!

Janathon Day 25 – a rest day

For the first time in a long time I can actually run. This has been amazing – and I’ve been surprised at how quickly I’ve started to see the changes in my body. I think I’ve lost some body fat, and I definitely feel healthier. However, I’ve also started to feel less psyched about climbing. While I don’t have any problems that I really want to work, I like having some structure to my climbing sessions as I feel like I get more out of them. With this in mind, me and Diane devised a loose set of training goals and structure which could fit around my running schedule. Unfortunately for me, my final 10k ‘race’ is 3 days before we leave for Font, so I’m going to have to balance running and climbing to ensure that I don’t burn myself out in time for Font.

To that end, Diane suggested that I write everything that I need to do between now and March on a calendar. In doing so, I realised how much I actually do and that’s not including the ad hoc kickboxing sessions and the occasional trips away. I’ve included reminders to take stock of how I feel, as I have a tendency – especially when feeling anxious to keep plowing on and adding more stuff to do – when really I should actually have a rest and give myself some recovery time.

My training schedule until March. Photo: CanadianKate

So, in order to try and balance my two main sports (at the moment), I’m going to start following the 10k training programme to the letter. No more letting the runs slide into longer ‘recovery’ runs, or more intervals. As much as I like watching my weight fall, I need to conserve my energy for climbing training – which is a totally different form of exercise.

So, with that in mind, me and Diane have devised a structure that uses Zones like in my running training. Where I’ve had quite a heavy or intense running session, I will have a ‘lighter’ climbing session, somewhere in the region of Z2 rather than Z5 and vice versa. I’m going to stick to 3 sessions a week and occasionally throw in a fourth session if I feel like it – but also remember that recovery is just as important as training.

Using Zones as an indicator of intensity for climbing helps structure the session. I use the warm ups to play with different body positions and enjoy moving; I then focus on one different thing in each session: such as awkward holds, steep climbing, footwork, endurance, and insecure holds and use the warm down (which I’m notorious for forgetting) to practice more dynamic moves between big holds.

My aim for the end of this training cycle is going to Font feeling confident, happy and psyched in Fontainebleau. I’d quite like to try Close Contact (7b+) at Drei Zinnen, I like the moves and it felt within my ability last time I was there. Even if I just get two or three of the moves, it’ll be progress.  So, with that in mind – my psyche is much higher now!

Oh, and as this is another rest day post, here’s another cute picture:

Photo via @emergencypuppy

Ha! I chose a hedghog this time!

But don’t worry, here’s a kitten photo:

Photo via @emergencypuppy

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