Janathon Day 26 – Sometimes sports bite back

I was out of sorts on Sunday. It was a crap day – the weather sucked, I was feeling pretty tired and I was slowly coming to the conclusion that something was going to have to give: if I want to do well in Font, I will have to reduce my running commitments – and that bummed me out too.

Anyway, I’ve started following the training ideas that me and Diane developed and as my warm up, I used the Foundry’s traversing wall to practice cross-through climbing and no matching on the L1 traverses. This really does help loosen up my back! After a couple of reps and making sure that I reversed each problem, I moved  onto the two L2 traverses and flashed both – such a nice feeling for my ego!

I decided to focus on steep terrain and work on foot work in the session, but first I had to dispatch a problem which I totally should have flashed. After using a heel hook (how did I miss that?!) I flashed it and then turned to working steep stuff. I tried a couple of the problems in the Wave, but it was full of Wads and super strong people, and was quite busy. I moved to the low roof and tried to link the bottom of a L2 that I tried on Wednesday.

I refreshed my memory and then went for a hold with a lot of force. Unfortunately a blue hold from a L1 problem decided to get in my way (it was totally its fault) and I banged my elbow so bad that it went numb and I wanted to throw up. I sat for about 10 minutes trying not to cry, and waiting for feeling to come back, which it did, but there was no way that I would be able to train any more that day. I was pretty gutted – I don’t have that much time before Font, and I really want to be in good condition when I get there.

I tried to do a couple of L1s, but even that hurt and the OH pushed me up the stairs and told me to stop climbing. I finally took his advice and put some ice on the bump. I haven’t done any permanent damage, but it really hurt the next day!

My session

Warm up

  • Traversing L-R, R-L in the traversing corridor
  • Climbing ‘wrong handed’

Main session

  • Working steep terrain
  • Attempted 3 problems, didn’t top any of them but progressed

Warm down

  • A cup of tea and an ice block