Janathon Day 29 – The start of my training for Fontainebleau

Today was the start of my training for Fontainebleau and it started with a zone 4 session on the steep section of the Foundry. My focus was on keeping my feet on the wall and using my core to progress between holds. It didn’t matter if I completed the problem, so long as I explored different ways to use my feet and work on keeping everything static.

I warmed up slowly and used the Foundry’s traversing wall to traverse without matching, working on foot placement and generally dicking about. Afterwards I moved into the main room and did some easy L1s to get the blood moving. I still wasn’t that psyched to climb and felt like I was climbing through mud.

I then moved to the main focus of the session: the steep stuff. I thought I’d start off gently and tried a problem that I flashed first off. I didn’t retro-flash it. It took me 3 goes to get it! But I wasn’t particularly warmed yet and I couldn’t remember the sequence that I used last time. After I made the first move, the rest of the problem felt really easy so it boded well for the rest of the session.

I guess it was a good session, but I didn’t feel particularly strong in general. I worked some L2s on the low roof and in the bay area. In general I just felt weak and working in Z4 really took it out of me.

After trying some of the problems in the main room, I decided to work on the 45 degree board. It’s definitely steep and has some pretty challenging holds to use. I couldn’t even  repeat the problems that I did the last time I was on the board (albeit I was trying to do them features for feet). I persevered and continued to try to link moves rather than focus on getting to the top. This, I think, is the point of the exercise so I tried not to take it to heart.

I kept getting tired really quickly and I felt like I have fallen backwards in my ability. I’m sure it’s just because I’ve done so much recently, but it is also pretty damn gutting too. I climbed for about 1 3/4 hours and tried to keep in Z4 for the entirity. By the time that I finished my warm down, I felt like my core had definitely had a workout!

My Session

Warm up

  • Completed 2 traverse problems L-R and back again.
  • Did a couple of L1 problems in the main room.

Main Session

  • Repeated 1 problem that I flashed on the Wave (L2)
  • Worked 1 problem on the Wave (L2, but everyone agrees its well hard)
  • Worked 2 problems in the Bay (L2)
  • Worked 2 problem in the Low Roof (L2)

Warm down

  • practised moving dynamically between holds in the traversing corridor.
  • moved into the main hall and did some L1s skipping holds.
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