Fontainebleau in 2 (and a bit) months

This training programme is something that Diane Merrick and I devised together. I have had some excellent training programs from Tom Greenall and Lucinda Whittaker, but wanted to try to make my own. I’ve devised one which addresses most of my weakness and the types of holds that I’m going to face in Font, and included a tapering off period. I’ve not entirely got rid of the running but it is substantially reduced.

Diane wrote out some important mantras that I should keep repeating to myself and some considerations. Here are the mantras:

  1. Always remember that climbing is for fun! Keep back time for 2 problems that I really enjoy, or even individual moves that I love
  2. Remember that trying really hard on moves that I ultimately fail at/fall off on will make me stronger!
  3. Some days will just be harder than others, especially in the middle of a training programme

I should also remember to keep these considerations at the forefront of my mind when training:

  1. Try to attempt problems without any help on the beta from friends
  2. Stay on problems and explore alternative hand/foot/body positions
  3. Maintain a ‘battle through’ mentality and try not to jump off before committing to a move
  4. Focus on the aim of the session rather than the grade of the climb

So, with those in mind, here is my training plan for the next 12(ish) weeks

Week 1

Day 1 Monday: Rest day

Day 2 Tuesday: Rest day

Day 3 Wednesday: Zone 4 steep terrain

  • Warm up: traverse no matching (L-R, R-L, cross-through where possible)
  • Main Session: insecure holds (Z4): explore foot positions, body position, one foot vs two feet
  • Warm down: easy problems missing out holds, dynamic

Day 4 Thursday: Rest Day

Day 5 Friday: Zone 2 Recovery Circuit

  • Warm up: traverse no matching, L-R, R-L, cross-through where possible
  • Main session: Recovery circuit (Z2) (easy effort)
  • Warm down: easy problems missing out holds.

Day 6 Saturday: Rest day

Day 7 Sunday: Zone 3/4 New Circuit

  • Warm up: traverse no matching, L-R, R-L, cross-through where possible
  • Main Session: Play (work things, but only up to Zone 3/4 and try to complete 1 circuit, even if it means dropping down the grade)
  • Warm down: easy problems missing out holds.

Week 2

Day 1 Monday: Rest day

Day 2 Tuesday: Recovery Run

No more than 40 minutes (Zone 1/2). Cool down 5-10 minutes

Day 3 Wednesday: Work Insecure Holds

  • Warm up: traverse no matching, L-R, R-L, cross-through where possible
  • Main session: Insecure holds, (Z4) explore foot positions, body position, one foot vs two feet
  • Warm down: easy problems missing out holds, dynamic

Day 4 Thursday: Zone 3/4 Steep Terrain

  • Warm up: ‘wrong handed’ climbing and no hands climbing
  • Main session: Steep terrain (Z3/4) keep feet on wherever possible, explore foot position, hip position, and body rotation to keep feet on (over and above trying to top a problem)
  • Warm down: Easy problems, dynamic, missing holds.

Day 5 Friday: Zone 2 Recovery Circuit

  • Warm up: traverse no matching, L-R, R-L, cross-through where possible
  • Main session: Recovery circuit (Z2) (easy effort)
  • Warm down: easy problems missing out holds.

Day 6 Saturday: Rest day

Day 7 Sunday: Zone 2 Endurance/easy circuit

  • Warm up: traverse no matching
  • Main Session: Nice circuit (Z2) easy moves, but some effort needed,
  • Warm down: easy problems done dynamically

Week 3

Day 1 Monday: Run 5 km

Run 5k. Warm down 5-10 minutes. Stretch

Day 2 Tuesday: Rest Day

Day 3 Wednesday: Away

Day 4 Thursday: Zone 2 Endurance

  • Warm up: traverse no matching
  • Main session: nice circuit (Z2) easy moves, but some effort needed
  • Warm down: easy problems done dynamically

Day 5 Friday: Zone 4 Steep Terrain

  • Warm up: ‘wrong handed’ climbing and no hands climbing
  • Main session: Steep terrain (Z4) keep feet on wherever possible, explore foot position, hip position, and body rotation to keep feet on (over and above trying to top a problem)
  • Warm down: Easy problems, dynamic, missing holds.

Day 6 Saturday: Rest Day

Day 7: Zone 4 Individual Moves

  • Warm up: single leg climbing, alternate legs; traverse no matching;
  • Main session: work individual moves, (Z4)
  • Warm down: easy problems missing out holds, dynamic

Week 4

Day 1 Monday: Zone 1/2 Recovery Run

No more than 40 minutes (Zone 1/2). Cool down 5-10 minutes

Day 2 Tuesday: Rest day

Day 3 Wednesday: Zone 1/2 Easy Circuit

  • Warm up: ‘wrong handed’ climbing and traverse no matching
  • Main session: Complete 1 easy circuit, minimal effort (Z1/2).
  • Warm down: easy problems missing out holds, dynamic

Day 4 Thursday: Zone 4 Insecure Holds

  • Warm up: traverse no matching, L-R, R-L, cross-through where possible
  • Main session: Insecure holds (Z4) explore foot positions, body position, one foot vs two feet
  • Warm down: easy problems missing out holds, dynamic

Day 5 Holiday

Day 6 Holiday

Day 7 Holiday

Week 5

Day 1 Monday: Rest day

Day 2 Tuesday: Rest day

Day 3 Wednesday: Zone 3/4 Steep terrain

  • Warm up: ‘wrong handed’ climbing and no hands climbing
  • Main session: Steep terrain (Z3/4) keep feet on wherever possible, explore foot position, hip position, and body rotation to keep feet on (over and above trying to top a problem)
  • Warm down: Easy problems, dynamic, missing holds.

Day 4 Thursday: Zone 2 Endurance circuit

  • Warm up: ‘wrong handed’ and ‘no hands’ climbing, 1 legged climbing
  • Main session: Endurance (Z3) try to complete 1 circuit within ability, but having to work moderately hard, attempt problems 3 times and then move on
  • Warm down: Easy problems, dynamic, missing holds.

Day 5 Friday: Zone 3/4 Play Circuit

  • Warm up: ‘wrong handed’ and ‘no hands’ climbing, 1 legged climbing
  • Main session: Endurance (Z3) but play
  • Warm down – easy problems, dynamic.

Day 6 Saturday: Rest Day

Day 7 Sunday: Zone 2 Recovery Circuit

  • Warm up: traverse no matching, L-R, R-L, cross-through where possible
  • Main session: Recovery circuit (Z2)
  • Warm down: easy problems missing out holds.

Week 6

Day 1 Monday: Zone 3 Run

Run for no more than 40-50 minutes max Z3. Warm down 5-10 minutes. Stretch

Day 2 Tuesday: Zone 1/2 Recovery Run

No more than 40 minutes (Zone 1/2). Cool down 5-10 minutes

Day 3 Wednesday: Zone 4 Individual Moves

  • Warm up: single leg climbing, traverse no matching
  • Main session: Work individual moves (Z4)
  • Warm down: easy problems missing out holds, dynamic

Day 4 Thursday: Rest day

Day 5 Friday: Zone 2 Recovery Circuit

  • Warm up: traverse no matching, L-R, R-L, cross-through where possible
  • Main session: Recovery circuit (Z2)
  • Warm down: easy problems missing out holds.

Day 6 Saturday: Rest day

Day 7 Sunday: Zone 5 Endurance

  • Warm up: traverse no matching
  • Main session: Endurance circuit (z5) have to hang on to actually complete and needs lots of effort
  • Warm down: easy problems done dynamically

Week 7

Day 1 Monday: Rest day

Day 2 Tuesday: Zone 1/2 Recovery Run

No more than 40 minutes (Zone 1/2). Cool down 5-10 minutes

Day 3 Wednesday: Zone 4 Insecure Holds

  • Warm up: traverse no matching, L-R, R-L, cross-through where possible
  • Main session: Insecure holds (Z4) explore foot positions, body position, one foot vs two feet
  • Warm down: easy problems missing out holds, dynamic

Day 4 Thursday: Rest day

Day 5 Friday: Zone 4 Steep Terrain

  • Warm up: ‘wrong handed’ climbing and no hands climbing
  • Main session: Steep terrain (Z4) keep feet on wherever possible, explore foot position, hip position, and body rotation to keep feet on (over and above trying to top a problem)
  • Warm down: Easy problems, dynamic, missing holds.

Day 6 Saturday: Rest day

Day 7 Sunday: Zone 4 – Individual Moves

  • Warm up: single leg climbing, alternate legs; traverse no matching
  • Main session: Work individual moves (Z4)
  • Warm down: easy problems missing out holds, dynamic

Week 8

Day 1 Monday: Rest day

Day 2 Tuesday: Rest Day

Day 3 Wednesday: Short session on Steep Terrain

  • Warm up: ‘wrong handed’ climbing and no hands climbing
  • Main session: Steep terrain (Z5) keep feet on wherever possible, explore foot position, hip position, and body rotation to keep feet on (over and above trying to top a problem)
  • Warm down: Easy problems, dynamic, missing holds.

Day 4 Thursday: Zone 2 Recovery Run

No more than 40 minutes (Z2). Cool down 5-10 minutes

Day 5 Friday: Zone 2 Easy Circuit

  • Warm up: ‘wrong handed’ climbing and no hands climbing
  • Main session: Complete 1 easy circuit (Z2)
  • Warm down

Day 6 Saturday: Rest Day

Day 7 Sunday: Outside or Short Indoors fun Session

  • Warm down: Easy problems, dynamic, missing holds.
  • Warm up: any form of warm up. Remember to play
  • Main session: Do what you feel like. Play and have a gossip.
  • Warm down: Dynamically

Week 9

Day 1 Monday: Rest day

Day 2 Tuesday: Zone 1/2 Recovery Run

No more than 40 minutes (Zone 1/2). Cool down 5-10 minutes

Day 3 Wednesday: 3 hard problems – Fun climbs

  • Warm up: any way you want.
  • Main session: only 3 problems (Z5) and then some fun ones. Make sure it’s a short session
  • Warm down: dynamically

Day 4 Thursday: Rest day

Day 5 Friday: Font!!

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2 thoughts on “Fontainebleau in 2 (and a bit) months

  1. Pingback: Recovery climb at the Climbing Works | Work Hard, Think Hard and Train Harder

  2. Pingback: Janathon Day 29 – The start of my training for Fontainebleau | Work Hard, Think Hard and Train Harder

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