A weak session at the Climbing Works

After my much happier climbing session on Wednesday, I was pretty drained on Friday. I really wanted to finish the redraft of Chapter 2 of my PhD, so worked pretty intensively on Thursday and Friday. When I finished work, I really didn’t fancy climbing, and the fact that there weren’t any new circuits to try didn’t really help either.

My training program told me to do a Zone 3/4 play circuit, which didn’t really help as there wasn’t anything that I wanted to play on. I was supposed to have done a Zone 2 ‘recovery circuit’ on the Thursday, but that didn’t happen because I had loads of work to do and wasn’t feeling that great. In sum, unlike Wednesday, my psych had up sticks and moved on.

I tried to play on some yellows and some whites. I did actually manage to do a couple of quite hard moves on the yellows (I had forgotten about that – it’s quite useful to log things isn’t it?). There was one that I was quite chuffed about – it involved a strong shoulder move, and trying to keep my feet on. After a couple of goes, I managed to find a way to hold the strong move by using a toe hook and then trying to push up off my foot for another hold. That’s where I kept falling off. It’s very strong move, and one that I’m not sure I’ll get but I’ll keep trying. After trying that a couple of times, and some other yellows, I got bored and cold.

In the end I played on a number of reds (they were the newest set) and then got cold. I was tired and wanted my curry. Hopefully, the Works will reset the yellows or wasps some time soon! Although – saying that – the way that I feel right now, I’d quite like them to wait a week or so!

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Back on the Wave at the Foundry

I don’t know why, but it’s felt like an age since I last climbed on the Wave. It was really, really quiet last Wednesday – that probably had something to do with the weather. It had been warm (ish) and sunny for most of the day. I wouldn’t be surprised if many were out climbing on actual rock rather than just plastic. I wish I was outside, but due to other commitments it wasn’t possible.

My training plan said to focus on steep terrain. I aimed to keep to Zone 3/4 and tried to keep strong climbing on steep terrain. I actually felt pretty happy to climb on the Wave.  I even managed to keep my feet on as well!

Anyway, I still felt strong and pretty good. In fact, after warming up (slowly), I managed to top 3 new L2s – some on the Wave! I was very pleased with myself and felt very strong.

A Pink L2. Photo: CanadianKate

 At least, until I bashed my knee against the bomb bay and fell off. It hurt like the dickens! Luckily that was near the end of the session and after warming down, it was dinner time.

In sum, I was very strong and happy to be climbing – clearly the ‘rest’ week had done me good. I was, once more, psyched to climb!

Recovery climb at the Climbing Works

I woke up on Sunday with a bit of a sore head. It was our 7 year anniversary on the 14th February (such a cliche, eh?), so to celebrate, we did the usual Saturday night routine: cook some really yummy food and watch Take Me Out (mainly to annoy the OH). I was a bit fuzzy headed the next day, so quite pleased that my aim for Sunday had changed somewhat from my training plan and my aim was to do a more endurance/volume session. Even better, the Works was quite quiet for a change.

I warmed up traversing and doing some one-legged climbing on some of the reds and greens towards the back of the Works. I’m finding the little kiddy play area great for easy traversing and luckily there weren’t any kids around, so I could play to my heart’s content. After starting to feel somewhat more the thing, I started at problem #1 of the Pinkles (graded F5+). It was lovely and straightforward, but also highlighted that I really hadn’t quite warmed up yet, so I threw in a couple more reds and greens for good measure.

I zoomed around the Pinkles as much as my head and the other climbers would let me. I had a couple of rests because I really wanted to do the problems in order as I often forget which numbers I have missed out on and then fail to complete the circuit. In the end I did all 36 problems, and only failed on 4 (#2, #7, #29, #14(?)), one of which I had done on Friday. A few of them took more than 1 go, but no more than 3. I was working quite hard during this session, and was in Zone 3 for most of it. For Sunday that was exactly what I wanted – something to make me work, but not to expend too much energy as I wasn’t feeling that great (self-induced, I know!).

I also aim to climb on Monday at the Foundry as it is the last of the Winter Bouldering League, so once I finished the Pinkles circuit, I cooled down, had a bite to eat and chatted with my friends. Running around doing endurance does not lend itself to social climbing, so it was nice to catch up with people at the end of the session.

By the end of the session I felt that I had accomplished my aims. I probably should have warmed up a bit more before starting my training proper, but I was keen to get cracking and I could warm up as part of the endurance circuit. I don’t think that I climbed particularly efficiently – I think I used more strength and thuggery to top some of the problems than body position and finesse. Diane said that she often climbs easy problems again when she thinks that she hasn’t climbed them particularly efficiently. I think I might start doing that, as it would force me to use better body positioning, balance and grace than simple thuggery. Maybe I’ll integrate this into my training plan too.

My general aims for the next week are quite broad. We’re going away for 4 days, so I’m aiming to climb Monday, Wednesday and Thursday. There is a comp at the Foundry on Monday, and I’m tempted to go and have a play on the new problems, or if not that psyched, go and do a steep terrain session on the 45 degree board instead. On Wednesday, I plan to do another easy circuit which means climbing all the L1s at the Foundry. On Thursday, I’ll be playing around on insecure holds again. Not a bad training week eh?

Here’s the grading of the new Pinkles:

The new pinkles circuit at the Climbing Works. Photo: CanadianKate

Exploring the footpaths and bridleways around Crosspool

In between the horrendous weather that the UK is having, I managed to go for a run in sunny and not so windy weather. Once again, my Garmin decided obtain signal about a km into my run, but I suppose that was my warm up anyway.

I decided to explore some of the footpaths between Crookes and Crosspool, so I ran towards the Bole Hills and then looped back through some allotments. Because I was not feeling particularly great still, I aimed to run around Z1/Z2 and really level out on the inclines. I think I kept to that for the most part. I didn’t feel like I expended that much energy and my pace certainly suggests that I was taking it easy! My average heart rate was right in the middle of Z2 and I often was in Z1.

It is quite frustrating running so slowly, and feeling like my cardio fitness and running pace is slipping backwards, but I made the conscious decision to focus on climbing and try to maintain my running. I’m still completing 2 runs per week, and my distance has not decreased that much during a 1/2 hour run. I also think that I’m fighting a cold or virus because I’m feeling a bit drained.

On the plus side, I’m slowly putting together some shorter routes that are off-road almost straight from my house, which is great. As much as I enjoy street-running, I do miss off road. Now that I’ve found some footpaths and bridleways very close to me, I’ll actually be able to get off-road more easily and quickly!

Some stats:

  • Distance: 4 km
  • Time: 36:57
  • Pace 9:23/km
  • Elevation gain: 187 m

Year-to-date

  • Distance: 97.9 km
  • Time 11:50:00
  • Elevation gain: 1876 m
  • Runs: 17

Zone 2/1 Run around Crosspool

I didn’t feel too great on Monday. I think I was starting to fight a bug or a virus, but still fancied going for a run. In hindsight, it probably was not the best idea in the world. I decided to take it very, very easy and stayed in Z1/Z2. It still felt pretty hard so instead of keeping to one of my circuits where I’d want to put in a good time, I decided to go for a bit of an explore.

After running through Crosspool, I turned off onto a footpath which I’d run past a number of times. I probably hadn’t got the best shoes on for running down muddy footpaths. It was a bit more of a slip and slide rather than a run and it certainly lowered my pace! After getting to the end of the footpath, I turned back up hill and started to head home. I didn’t feel that great by this point, so I lowered my heart rate down to Z1 for the remainder in the run.

Some stats:

  • Distance: 4.2 km
  • Time: 36:00
  • Elevation gain: 101 m
  • Pace: 8:56 min/km

Year-to-Date

  • Distance: 94 km
  • Time 11:13:00
  • Elevation gain: 1689 m
  • Runs: 16

Steep climbing at the Climbing Works

 On Sunday, I was supposed to do an easy Zone 2 circuit. Because I had done one on Friday, I was pretty felt pretty strong and wanted to see what I could do on the competition problems on the Comp Wall instead. My aim was to see if I could top out at least 2 of the problems on the Comp Wall.

I topped out on two problems on the Comp Wall (a 6a yellow and a 6a+ murple) and turned to something harder. I made a number of attempts on the 7a pinkle going up the main overhanging wall. The first couple of moves were quite straightforward, but there was one move which was really quite strong. It required a deep Egyptian and a slap to a not particularly good hold (it was a good hold, but turned the wrong way). This was a pretty hard move for me because it required dynamism, a bit of strength and being able to latch the sloper. I almost managed to hold it once, but I started getting lower on the move so I decided to change problems as I was fatiguing. 

The next problem was even harder – at least for me! It was made up of the toothpaste volumes that I never get on with. The problem is graded 7a, and I didn’t get anywhere on it! It’s really not my style. After trying different things for a good 5-6 attempts to get off the ground, I moved on. I was getting bored of the Comp Wall, so I decided to try some of the yellows and whites in the rest of the Works.

In the end, I didn’t get up anything but I did manage to link some moves on steep stuff, which took me a couple of goes but I achieved it. I was super stoked about being able to link a white problem opposite the reception. It included two finger pockets and quite a hard cross over. I figured out how to hold myself in when making that cross-over, but it was a very strong move so I started to fatigue quite quickly. I started to warm down (dynamically) and get ready to head home.

Exploring the Climbing Work’s Mini Works

Friday’s training aims were nice and straightforward:

Warm up: traverse no matching, L-R, R-L, cross-through where possible

Main session: Recovery circuit (Z2), easy effort

Warm down: easy problems, missing out holds

As luck would have it, the Climbing Works had reset their green and pink spotties across both the main wall and the mini-works. Because it was a recovery/endurance circuit, I thought this would be a perfect circuit to play on. I tried not to have too many rests between problems, and luckily it wasn’t too busy so I didn’t have to wait for problems. I did have a short rest catching up with some people who I’ve not seen for a long time, and then I had to walk to the mini works after completing the 20 problems in the main wall. I’d still like to believe that I was doing endurance work.

The problems were really straightforward and not particularly difficult. I think they’re roughly font 4 and that was perfectly fine for me as I was supposed to be in Z2. I probably could have gone up a circuit, but the holds are so grotty and dirty on the pinkles that I really didn’t want to. I did feel quite tired towards the end of the session. The last 3 problems did feel like effort and I had to drop down to the level to complete.

Green/pink spotties. Photo CanadianKate

The spotties were graded 3-4 by the setters.

It was the 2nd time that I had been in the Mini Works and it was certainly overrun by children. However, the mats are still rock hard and super painful to jump down on them. This kind put me off throwing for things because my back is a wee bit niggly at the moment and I really don’t want to aggravate it. I think they should have one of the indoor comps in the Mini Works – or get a whole bunch of adults in there jumping up and down on the mats to soften them up a bit!

Friday’s training aims were nice and straightforward: Warm up: traverse no matching, L-R, R-L, cross-through where possible Main session: Recovery circuit (Z2) (easy effort) Warm down: easy problems missing out holds. As luck would have it, the Climbing Works had reset their green and pink spotties across both the main wall and the mini-works. Because it was a recovery/endurance circuit, I thought this would be a perfect circuit to play on. I tried not to have too many rests between problems, and luckily it wasn’t too busy so I didn’t have to wait for problems. I did have a short rest catching up with some people who I’ve not seen for a long time, and then I had to walk to the mini works after completing the 20 problems in the main wall. I’d still like to believe that I was doing endurance work.  The problems were really straightforward and not particularly difficult. I think they’re roughly font 4-5 and that was perfectly fine for me as I was supposed to be in Z2. I probably could have gone up a circuit, but the holds are so grotty and dirty on the pinkles that I really didn’t want to. I did feel quite tired towards the end of the session. The last 3 problems did feel like effort and I had to drop down to the level to complete.  It was the 2nd time that I had been in the Mini Works and it was certainly overrun by children. However, the mats are still rock hard and super painful to jump down on them. This kind put me off throwing for things because my back is a wee bit niggly at the moment and I really don’t want to aggravate it. I think they should have one of the indoor comps in the Mini Works - or get a whole bunch of adults in there jumping up and down on the mats to soften them up a bit!  After I completed my circuit, I wandered back to the main wall and contemplated climbing some more. I felt quite tired and couldn’t really be assed, so I did some easy problems with a bit of dynamism to cool down and then got changed.  I’m nearly at the end of my 2nd week of training for Font and I feel like I’m getting somewhere. My footwork is getting better and I feel like I’m happier on my feet. It’ll still take me a while to get happier on using insecure holds, but I think after 2 sessions I still feel like I’ve improved.  Bring on next week!

The Mini Works have some lovely problems for adults too, but my god are the mats hard!

After I completed my circuit, I wandered back to the main wall and contemplated climbing some more. I felt quite tired and couldn’t really be assed, so I did some easy problems with a bit of dynamism to cool down and then got changed.

I’m nearly at the end of my 2nd week of training for Font and I feel like I’m getting somewhere. My footwork is getting better and I feel like I’m happier on my feet. It’ll still take me a while to get happier on using insecure holds, but I think after 2 sessions I still feel like I’ve improved.

Here’s the

Bring on next week!