Janathon Day 22 – New problems at the Foundry!!

I love, love, love the new problems at the Foundry. They’re good fun, a good range of difficulty and did I say fun?

The Foundry had another winter bouldering league comp last Monday, and they stripped the whole bouldering wall for it. On Tuesday, they added more problems and filled in the blanks. I didn’t go to the comp (not really my thing) but was super excited to try them on Wednesday.

After warming up on some L1s and playing around for a bit, I tried some of the L2s. One of my friends said that they were much easier this set than the last but clearly I chose a problem which was still hard. It started at the bottom of the wave and included a strong move off an okay hold, using a heel hook to gain a really crappy pinch – which I could only hold by guppying it. After that, it was a case of moving my feet around to try and pop to a better, but not great hold. That was as far as I got. I kept falling off, or not getting enough height to go to the next. It’s definitely a worker and also nice to know that Diane had similar problems latching that move.

After about 4 goes on the fluoro yellow L2, tried the pink next to it. I flashed it, and it felt awesome!! I had a short rest and then tried another fluoro yellow problem on the far left-hand side of the Wave. I flashed that too!!

By this point, I was getting tired and only had enough in the tank for two more problems. I tried a fluoro yellow to the right of the Wave, in a small groove. It was technical – so I knew I was unlikely to flash it. Guess what? I didn’t flash it. I had to figure out short people’s beta and then get some bravery going. I worked out the sequence though, and I’ll definitely get it next session.

The final problem I tried was on the low roof and I didn’t get anywhere on it. I was clearly tired, the OH was poorly and I wanted food. I’ll start with that one next time!

Oh – and I have some ideas to structure my climbing sessions from now until Font – but I’ll post about that separately.

Some stats:

  • Warmed up on 6-7 L1
  • Flashed 2 L2
  • Worked 3 L2s
  • Attempted 5 L2s in total

Getting shut down by the new set at the Foundry

After the Foundry Winter Bouldering League on Monday, the whole of the bouldering wall has been reset. I have heard from some of the setters and those involved that the problems have a wide range of difficulty. I warmed up on the L1s, and they were really nice. They flowed well and had some nice long moves in them.

I took a while to warm up, because winter has now settled in Sheffield and it is cold in the Foundry main hall! It didn’t take long for my body to warm up, but fingers take longer to warm up properly and as I’m still a bit worried about my left-hand middle finger, I didn’t want to risk it.

I tried about 3 of the L2s. That was all I could do before flying into a massive rage (strop?!) about my ability on Wednesday (likely), or the setting (less likely). I found a lot of the moves very long – especially the final move. I had found this the case on the only L2 that I tried in the comp on Monday, but that is more the way that the wall is designed than the setter’s fault as there isn’t any place to put footholds without making the problem super easy for those who are taller.

I got really, really frustrated on a problem on the 15 degree bleaustone wall. It had a move that would be piss if tall, but really freaking difficult when shorter. The only way that I found to do it was but resting on my heel, rolling over to press against the volume and then popping to catch a small hold with my left hand. I then had to match said tiny hold – a feat I managed once – and then do a very long move out to the left to hold a pinch, walk up the volume then it was home and dry. I know that short people can do this problem because someone smaller than me did it – but that pissed me off even more. And even typing about the problem is filling me with rage!

I tried 2 more problems, and managed to do most of the moves. I kept dropping the top of two of the fleuros because the final holds weren’t great and miles away from the top. I was shaking in frustration by the time that my friend suggested we have a cake stop.

After not achieving anything worth note on the L2s, I decided to do some routes. I am still enjoying leading, but was feeling pretty bolloxed after trying hard on the bouldering wall. Me and a friend stayed in the main room and for the first time in about 3 years, I led something up the main wall. Granted the highest grade was a 6a+, but still, yay!

We did 2 routes each in the main hall and then went into the Furnace. I was so tired, and pumped that my left hand wouldn’t close properly. Instead of dropping off and lowering down, I switched to the grade lower (5+) and topped the route. The OH had come in to shout that everyone was packing up to go to Wetherspoons so that curtailed me doing any more routes.

I hope to do at least 10 routes on Friday, and I’m not sure about getting back on the Wave. It seems that I never get passed the L2s. I’ve climbed at the Foundry for 7 years now, and I really can’t see any improvement when it comes to benchmarking my climbing there. Most re-sets I can do maybe 3-4 in the first session, and then work a couple more of them, but I never seem to get past them. Whereas, at the Climbing Works, I have gone from not being able to do any of the Yellows/Wasps in a set to doing most of them. I dunno, it’s really, really disheartening and frustrating.

Some stats:

  • Warmed up on 5 L1s
  • Worked 3 L2s – shut down on 2nd move on 2 of them; dropped the final move on 2 of them
  • Led 2 5+s
  • Led 2 6as

Foundry Climbing Centre Winter Bouldering League

It was supposed to be Ladies Night at the Foundry Climbing Centre on Monday night. Unfortunately, the two people who I had arranged to climb with couldn’t make it. This meant that I didn’t have anyone to rope climb with. It so happened that the Foundry Winter Bouldering League (#TFWBL) was on. I decided to ‘enter’ so I could at least do something after coming down.

It was fairly quiet when I started warming up, but by the time I was ready to do some actual pulling, the wall was rammed. I flashed all the L1s that were set and I really wanted to try some of the L2s. The only one that I tried I cruised until the final move, which ended with a very stretched top move. It’s in the same part of the wall that I’ve trouble with before when topping out. I wish the setters would figure out a way of making the moves interesting for taller people, but not absolutely terrifying for those vertically challenged. I did want to try the problem again but I was getting pretty cold, and it didn’t look like I would get a chance.

I went into the other room and played on the 45 degree board for a while. At least until my wrist and middle finger started to hurt. After climbing on Friday I noticed a small lump in my middle finger’s A2 pulley on my left hand. It didn’t hurt that much on Friday, but was still noticeable. After climbing on Monday it started to hurt a bit more. I decided to leave it and go home.

In sum, the session wasn’t that productive, but I did get to move and the new problems look pretty fun. I’m looking forward to playing on them on Friday.

Some stats:

  • Topped 6 L1s
  • Dropped last move on 1 L2
  • Played for a bit
  • Hurt my finger